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 Conditioning Game fowl 
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Cockerel
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Joined: August 13th, 2010, 5:15 pm
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Post Re: Conditioning Game fowl
I find that some of the old cockers that begin selling fowl for extra cash lost in the long run. Pullets/stags that would run out and be 'nature culled' have been put into compact pens to keep from any being caught by wildlife. To some of the big cockers who sell, that small stag or pullet will bring in extra $$$, they dont want to loose them. So they will select the few outta them that fits their own standard, high station, spur placement, feathers,ect, so now we have a pen full of stags/pullets that have been locked up with absolutely the min. care. No bugs, No worms, Not even a big June Bug, has made it into their system. Now someone buys a trio off of this individual thinking they are so great, but in reality they just might be culls, You will probably never know. This is why many old cockers that done so well in the past are not doing well today in my opinion. That hawk that fly's over every day that you hate, could REALLY be saving you LOTS and LOTS of cash in the long run. Nature takes it course, as with all life.

Quality fowl starts in the first few months of their life. I know its hard to cull birds, but that is the way it has to be. Dont think you are helping that bird by putting it in a 3x3 cage so nothing can get it, If you want quality fowl, you must cull, cull, cull.

Years ago it took me almost 5 years of breeding a certain trio for me to find a "brood" stag worthy of breeding back into the family. Selective breeding will help you in the long run.

A Keep really does start in the early years of their life. Like the other post said, you cant lay around for 20yrs then expect to be an athlete in 2 weeks. << I really liked that point.

Buy the best feed available at your location, if you cant afford it, have less birds. 18% is great feed. Dont be afraid to throw worms in the cages, anything natrual. Alternate worm meds around. Feeding the same worm pill month after month will let the worms build a tolerance to them.

Just some advice, Never purchase birds from people who send you a picture and the water bowl is green, or the ground is just bare dead earth. Dont buy fowl that is 3-4 months old and have a "football" body. Almost all fowl I have seen that run loose will have a little breast bone, it is from the running around they do. They are active creatures. If you find fowl that are FAT and young, skip them, they will probably cost you a lot of cash.

OH, and stay away from the yellow fat ones. Hold the wing up, look to see if the skin is yellow, if it is, It is a sure sign that bird has had almost nothing but yellow corn for its life. Yes you can see the yellow fat under the skin.


Good Day and God Bless


August 26th, 2010, 12:16 pm
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Post Re: Conditioning Game fowl
Carr wrote:
China,
I been around long enough to know the hen is just as important or worthy as the cockbird. I don't recall questioning your experience, but I know this- I'd wager a guess I've been doing this since you were mastering multiplication tables, and BIG MONEY rules the world and social skills are lost on many otherwise competant minds.


Carr..you must be a really old fart! LOL! and just so you know..i suck at math! :na

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August 26th, 2010, 12:39 pm
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Post Re: Conditioning Game fowl
Old as dirt, - real, old dirt.

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August 26th, 2010, 3:11 pm
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Cockerel
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Post Re: Conditioning Game fowl
Is there any game fowl equipment suppliers?


August 26th, 2010, 4:12 pm
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Stag
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Post Re: Conditioning Game fowl
you can go to oakridge they have some stuff on there belle farms is also another place im sure there is alot more but thats all i know of - cali

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August 26th, 2010, 4:14 pm
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Post Re: Conditioning Game fowl
Theres a bunch of them what you looking for?

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August 26th, 2010, 5:00 pm
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Cockerel
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Post Re: Conditioning Game fowl
lots in the gamecock selling conditioning aides, ya wont find anyone advertising gaffs or knifes for illegal activity. It is now against the law to BUY or SELL them.


August 26th, 2010, 5:07 pm
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Cockerel
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Joined: December 13th, 2009, 11:32 am
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Post Re: Conditioning Game fowl
I mean feeders and pens


August 26th, 2010, 5:52 pm
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Cockerel
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Post Re: Conditioning Game fowl
Here is a keep I ran across posted somewhere else.

Not to be used for illegal activity, only to be used in country's where cockfighting is LEGAL. Again, not for illegal activity only used here as a reference as a conditioning method.

Code:
As shared by JCJ Farm

***** Keep


Selecting Your Fowl
Only choose fowl that are in good health, that seem active and are not too fat. Fowl should be around their fighting weight. Once you have chosen them spar them and see which one do best, always select a few more than you are going to show just in case. You should have confidence in the fowl you select, if you are not too confident in them don’t put them in the keep.

Pens
You will need fly pens and pens that are on grass or tie cords on grass. Your fly pens should have a lot of space with clean and fresh liter. You can choose a liter of your liking. You will also need keep stalls. These pens and keep stalls can be the size best suited for you. Remember always try to have your pens, stalls and cockhouses as clean as they can be.

Feed
The feed that you will use in the pre-keep will be the grain feed used in the keep. If you don’t want to change your feed from your regular feed just make sure your protein is around 20%. The grain mix is as follows 2 part pigeon racing feed, 1 part breeding or laying pellets, and 1 part Split Oat groats. This grain mix will be the feed used in the pre-keep. For the pre-keep you will feed about 2 ounces once a day in the afternoon. For the keep you will add buttermilk and on days 2,4,6.9 and 11 you will add egg whites. The mixture is as follows 2 teaspoons grain mix, 1/3 of the hard boiled egg (egg white only) and moistened with 1 teaspoon buttermilk. On all other feed times feed 2 teaspoons grain mix and 1 teaspoon buttermilk. The cocks feed for the keep should be about 1 ½ ounces per feeding. This feed will be given twice a day until the 12th day of the keep. For the 12th and 13th day of the keep the feed will be grain mix moistened with water. Moistened this mix according to the moisture of your fowl. This feed should also be 1 ½ ounces. This feed will also be used to regulate moisture.

Work
All the work that is given to the fowl will be Fly’s. Fly’s are done by slightly tossing the fowl to your bench for about 3 to 4 feet away and letting him go a little bit under the height of the bench. Make sure your bench is well padded. After you work the bird give them a little rub down or massage. The rest of the work will be done by the cock themselves.

Vitamins
In this keep I use several vitamins. You can substitute these or leave some of these supplements out. I use aminoplex tablets, aminoplex injectable, and stop leak. I also use vitamins in there water from Day 4 of the pre-keep throughout the keep.

Sparring
When sparring your fowl always use gloves or muffs. Before sparring moisten the bills and joints a little with water. Spar fowl with other fowl that weigh around the same and have different fighting styles. Don’t bill the fowl because this makes them look for a bill hold when sparring. First drop the fowl real close allowing them to buckle twice, then drop the fowl 3 feet apart, let them buckle twice, then drop the fowl 5 feet apart and let them buckle twice and finally drop the fowl 10 feet apart and let them buckle a few times(between each drop allow the fowl to rest about 20 seconds). You will notice the fowl adjust with each drop.

Hauling Fowl and Arriving at the Pit
Never haul your fowl in a pick up. Make sure your vehicle has no exhaust leaks and don’t make any stops (especially a gas station) go directly to the pit and make sure you arrive early. Before you put your fowl in there carrying boxes let them stretch a little and make sure they drop. Cover the boxes with a blanket or sheet to darken them. When you arrive at the pit take out each bird and let him drop once or twice before you weigh him. Once you have weighed him put back in box and do not disturb until you are called.

Extra Notes
-Try to make a routine of this keep and set times for feed that are consistent, feed time should be around 12 hours apart.
-Always have oyster shells or grit available to your fowl
-Always have fresh water available to your fowl
-Always have a hen were your fowl can see her when in there pens
-Always rotate fowl from pens try to put a different bird in a different pen each day
-Always observe your fowls droppings they should me firm but moist not dry or watery
-Always observe your bird’s weight and adjust feed if needed
-Take a water bottle with you to the pit so you can moisten your fowl bill and joints right before fight time
-If your fowl appear to be dry give them a peck of cottage cheese, or some egg whites in water, if they appear too moist give them about 4 grains of some cracked corn.



(7-day Pre-Keep & 14-day Keep)
Pre-Keep

Day 1
Morning: Weight fowl. Spar Fowl. Then let them cool down. Wash face and legs. Give them a wormer tablet. Delouse, cut spurs, cut feathers around vent area and put in them in fly-pens. Then mix some white bread, milk and ½ teaspoon of Epson salt per bird and feed them that mixture. Put an antibiotic in their drinking water. This water will remain there for three days.
Night: Bring in fowl and put in keep stalls.
Day 2
Morning: Give each bird ¼ cc of aminoplex and place in Fly Pen.
Night: Bring in fowl and put in keep stalls.
Day 3
Morning: Put in Fly Pen.
Night: Bring in fowl and put in keep stalls.
Day 4
Morning: Change water and place in fly pens.
Night: Bring in fowl and put in keep stalls.
Day 5
Morning: Hand spar fowl and place in fly pens
Night: Bring in cocks and put in keep stalls.
Day 6
Morning: Place fowl in fly pen.
Night: Bring in fowl and put in keep stalls.
Day 7
Morning: Place fowl in fly pen.
Night: Bring in cock and put in keep stalls.

Keep
Day 1
Morning: Weigh fowl. Spar fowl. Clean feet and face. Give a wormer tablet. Then place fowl in keep stalls with water.
Night: Nothing. Leave in keep stalls. Darken.
Day 2
Morning:Give 1 aminoplex tablet and ¼ cc aminoplex. Feed. Then put them in fly pens.
Evening: Place in grass pen for 1 hour then return to Fly pen.
Night: Give 10 Fly’s. Put in keep stalls feed (egg white mixture) and water. Darken.
Day 3
Morning: Feed. Then put in fly pens
Evening: Place in grass pen for 1 hour then return to Fly pen.
Night: Give 20 Fly’s. Put in keep stalls feed and water. Darken.
Day 4
Morning: Give 1 aminoplex tablet. Feed. Then put in fly pen.
Evening: Place in grass pen for 1 hour then return to Fly pen.
Night: Give 30 Fly’s. Put in keep stalls feed (egg white mixture) and water. Darken.
Day 5
Morning:. Feed. Then put in fly pens
Evening: Place in grass pen for 1 hour then return to fly pen.
Night: Give 40 Fly’s. Put in keep stalls feed and water. Darken.
Day 6
Morning: Give 1 aminoplex tablet. Feed and put in Fly pens.
Evening: Place in grass pen for 1 hour then return to Fly pen.
Night: Give 50 Fly’s. Put in keep stalls feed(egg white mixture) and water. Darken.
Day 7
Morning: Feed. Then put in fly pens
Evening: Place in grass pen for 1 hour then return to fly pen.
Night: Give 60 Fly’s. Put in keep stalls feed and water. Darken.
Day 8
Morning: Spar. Place in Fly pens.
Night: Bring fowl in and place in keep stalls. Feed and water. Darken
Day 9
Morning: Give 1 aminloplex tablet and ¼ cc aminoplex. Feed. Then place in Fly pens.
Evening: Place in grass pen for 1 hour then return to Fly pen.
Night: Give 50 Fly’s. Place in keep stall feed (egg white mixture) and water. Darken

Day 10
Morning: Feed. Place in Fly pens.
Evening: Place in grass pen for 1 hour then return to Fly pen.
Night: Give 40 Fly’s. Put in keep stalls feed and water. Darken.
Day 11
Morning: Give 1 aminoplex tablet. Feed. Place in Fly pens.
Evening: Place in grass pens for 1 hour then return to Fly pen.
Night: Give 30 Fly’s. Put in keep stalls feed (egg white mixture) and water. Darken
Day 12
Morning: No Work. Feed Grain Mix. Put in fly pen.
Night: No work. Put in keep stalls feed Grain Mix and water. Darken.
Day 13
Morning: No Work. Feed Grain Mix. Leave in keep stalls and darken.
Evening: Take fowl out of keep stall and let them stretch out a little.
Night: Give fowl 1 stop leak capsule. If fight is in the morning feed 2/3 of grain mix. If fight is at night feed full amount of grain mix. (Remember to regulate moisture). Darken.
Day 14
Morning: If fights in morning don’t feed. Let fowl stretch and drop. Wipe feet and face and haul fowl to pit. If night fight feed 2/3 of Scratch Mix. Let them have some water. Darken
Evening: Before leaving for pit allow fowl to stretch and drop. Then wipe face and legs. Then haul fowl to pit.

Fight Time
When you are called to tie your weapon before tying give your bird a rub down making sure he is loose. Once you have tied your weapon moisten the bird’s beak and joints with some water. Allow your bird to get use to his surroundings and the weapon on his feet.

Final Words
To be successful in this sport you must have a few things. One of them is common sense. You should not over due anything with game fowl. Next you must have well bred fowl. You must also have your fowl in good health all year round. You should be dedicated when you are feeding for a show and consistent. Always use the best quality weapons and supplies for your game fowl. Having a good feeder, heeler, and handler also play a big part. Having all these things you will have a great chance in being successful. Good Luck!


August 26th, 2010, 6:08 pm
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Stag
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Post Re: Conditioning Game fowl
wow great read very intresting :thumb - cali

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August 26th, 2010, 8:15 pm
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